In the third part of our circumpolar tour, we visit Murmansk. Following the break-up of the USSR, the city and its strategic naval base went into decline. But the promise of Arctic riches is reviving the city once again.
During the Putin years the process of democratisation in Russia has stalled, with worrying human-rights violations. But a barely heard opposition is fighting back. Led by chess master Garry Kasparov, advised by activist…